An acquaintance whom I hold in high regard asked me what ten essentials a good wardrobe should be built around. Here was my answer:
1) A pair of brogues. Go for Loake's, Grensons or Church's. Tan will go with jeans and a shirt just as easily as with a navy or grey suit. Keep shoe-trees in them when you aren't wearing them. You can just go for things like Samuel Windsor and they look the part at first but they fall apart whereas you can wear proper brogues for decades.
2) Proper jeans. This is the obvious one and you've already got them so there's not too much to say. What matters is fit and weight of denim- cheap jeans are thinner and lose all of their shape after the first wash (because the starch or whatever is washed out). If someone tells you just to get 501s, ignore them: the shape of 501s changes every few years (they're currently in that awful carrot shape that media tits wear). If you can get genuine 1947 or 1966 501s- or reissues- then you're well away. Edwins are great, APC and Nudie too. Selvedge denim (turn-ups with a red edge are a good indicator) are usually a great indicator of quality but a few tatty ones have been coming out in the last few yeats from the likes of Henleys. For a bargain, look at Uniqlo's Japanese denim range (but it must be the Japanese denim). By the way, if you get Dry or Raw denim it has to be worn hundreds of times before you wash it to make it look great. If you need to freshen them up, whack them in the freezer for a day and then on the line.
3) A sports jacket (it's basically a blazer). This is brilliant because it entirely suits any environment depending what you wear it with (and it'll go with anything). Navy is the obvious choice- gold buttons optional- and you can't really go wrong with it but I've seen all kind look great. Tweeds are especially fashionable at the minute and will be for at least a couple of years.
4) Cotton Oxford shirts (Oxford indicates the way the cotton's weaved, I can't describe it but you'll know it when you see it). It's usually a button-down so it's casual obviously. Blues and pinks are great, gingham I love (but that's a Mod/Skin/Suede heritage thing as much as anything else). Ralph Lauren do the original (well, except for Brooks Brothers who really were first but you can't get them over here unless you really look and they tend to be really, really boxy) but as long as it's 100% cotton and fits well, then who cares? I used to have one in white from Asda and it was lovely, cost about three quid.
4a) depending on how often you get dressed up, you'll want at least one really nice dress shirt too: white, traditional collar, much finer cotton (they can be a bit see-through so mind out if you're hairy) and with a French cuff. Dress shirts and novelty cuff-links are not a great way to command respect in social situations.
5) Polo shirts. It can be tough finding good polo shirts because so many people buy shit ones that manufacturers flood the market with them. Fred Perrys especially are usually tat unless you get the made in Italy or, at a push, made in Portugal ones. They charge a lot more for these, obviously. Daniel Craig's James Bond wears Sunspel polos which look great and have a good reputation, but I've never seen them in the flesh. By the way unlike with shoes, do not under any circumstances buy from ebay it is flooded with fakes. Also, don't buy golf shirts which are cut entirely differently and are deliberately too loose to allow for the swing. If you're really treating yourself get a knitted Italian Fred Perry one, they're lovely.
6) Chinos. I'm including these because they're the key trouser in fashion at the moment and coincidentally (I sincerely hope) my current favourite. I hated them for years because I associated them with that pleated, turn-up, Rick Astley/Jive Bunny look and now that I've got over them I've fallen in love with them. They're basically jeans which you can get away with where you couldn't wear jeans. Beneath a denim shirt is teh best example. Most are much too baggy (especially pleated ones- any pleats automatically add unnecessary cloth). I love Dockers D-Zero but most people find D-1 quite skinny enough. I'm told that Gap 1969 range are good. You're looking for weight of cloth, as with jeans.
7) Raincoat. The reason this is so important is that you can be wearing a £200 polo shirt, perfect jeans and all anyone can see is your raincoat. No-one ever seems to realise this! Obviously it's a matter of taste, but in my opinion you want a fly front (hidden buttons), no epaulettes, full lining and adjusters at cuff-level. The problem with this is that the best ones are also worn by Casuals, so if you're at the match in it the police will be videoing you. I'm after a new one of these and I'll be honest I have never had one I'm totally happy with. I'd love a Mackintosh, but they never make them in my miniature size- nor do Burberry or Aquascutum, nor any of the established names. I also want one in ice blue which no-one on earth makes. If I can find the money, I'm hoping to get one made bespoke next year or the year after. Until then it will probably be one from Jump The Gun.
8) Merino knitwear. You're already all over this I know, but it really is essential. Smedley if you're feeling flush and Uniqlo or Gap if you're on a budget. You must remember that light colours under dark Merino show through like a Global Hypercolour.
9) A brilliant suit. If you can't get one made bespoke (and if you use someone like asuitthatfits.com it really isn't as expensive as you'd think), then pick a top quality one Boss or Ralph Lauren or something and hope that it comes out in the sales. If you make it distinctive (pinstripe or double-breasted, for example) you limit the things you can wear it with and so it looks like you always wear the same suit. Get a charcoal one in wool (or maybe navy), two or three buttons (three looks better but I often settle for a two as a concession to being short), American (1 vent) or British (2 vents) and check the way the shoulder fits when you try it on. Anything can be altered on an off-the-peg jacket to make it look perfect, but shoulders cost a fortune and you need a really good tailor to get them right. I had to spend £135 getting a Gap sports jacket that only cost £40 to buy in the first place right!
10) A peacoat. They're all over the place again this winter but don't worry about that, this is the best coat for our climate if you can find one that fits snugly over warm winter jumpers. Avoid anything with unnecessary zips, epaulettes, buttons with anchors on (to my shame I have one but I'll be changing them soon), press-studs, colours or labels because that will make it look old as soon as fashion rejects them- which I expected last winter. Get a classic one and it will look new forever. Plain, double-breasted, woollen and in navy. It goes with jeans and with a suit trainers or a suit. It is perfect.
One last thing, the trick to getting away with just a few good quality essentials is to wear accessories that change them. It depends, of course, on what you're comfortable with. I shy away from hats- contrary to my reputation- but wear some of the gayest scarves in history. This is where you get the most compliments and, also, the most stick. The amounts rise and fall proportionately.
